Sam Sifton Is Sambivalent

“The restaurant’s steaks are taken off grass-fed cattle, and butchered to the thickness of a Frisbee. This is a grim combination, leading to giant flaps of crust-free, overly chewy meat the flavor of nickels. Most people cut bits off, then push the rest around the plate as if it were a pile of napkins. At $45 for a rib-eye, this is a nasty business.”
 — Sam Sifton gives the very attractive new East Village restaurant Peels a nice kiss at the start of his review in today’sTimes

. But then he slaps it across the face! But then he gives it a kiss again at the end, saying of their breakfasts, “It is for this feeling that we go to restaurants.” It is for this feeling that couples go into couples therapy.