Man Finishes Job

“By point of context, though, an aisle orchestra seat at the Metropolitan Opera for Donizetti’s ‘L’Elisir d’Amore’ runs $330, also excluding wine.”
 — I am a huge sucker for departing Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton, but I do recognize that he is probably the most divisive person in that position since Ruth Reichl started flinging stars at Chinese joints. In any event, this sentence from his final review, in which he designates Per Se as New York’s best restaurant, echoes on SO MANY LEVELS that even if I were disinclined to enjoy it I would still need to doff my cap.

Photo by Peter Bond, via Flickr