"Southeast Asian-Aware" Just Really Worked For Me

“Only a marvelous chicken-and-crab salad ($19) with coconut, cherry tomatoes and a spicy green chili dressing really worked, and it’s not so much Southeast Asian as Southeast Asian-aware. It’d be an excellent lunch option at one of those fresh-salad restaurants where people line up with plastic takeout bowls and then eat in the park.”
-Sometimes it actually seems downright unfair to set Sam Sifton loose on the city’s restaurants, the kicker to this dining brief on the new Thai-inspired Betel being a case in point.